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Evaluating Inspectors

Key Characteristics of a Great Inspector

64-1First, an inspector does not become great until they have experience. Experience comes from ‘hands on’ inspections. Classroom training is important, but until you have inspected at least 250 homes you would not have the judgement to distinguish a big problem from a small problem.

Second, successful home inspectors are professional. Your first contact with an inspector will come from either a website or a phone conversation. A quality home inspector will have both a professional, easy to navigate interactive website and an experienced personable support person able to answer your questions. Professional inspectors use the same consistent care from start to finish; they understand that at every touch point the customer will judge the quality of their service.

Third, the best inspectors have communication skills. A home inspection is an experience and making it pleasant is the key to a great inspection. Home buyers and sellers are anxious and excited; a cool, calm, matter of fact inspector is best suited to be fair and balanced with any problems that are discovered.

Don’t settle for anything less than the best.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

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Should We Stay or Should We Go

Our dreams are our dreams.

Countless times I’ve seen family and friends looking for a better place to live. Whether it be a different house or a different location, the grass always seems to be greener somewhere else. As a home inspector too often I see aging parents being moved out by their kids because of the costs and difficulties in maintaining the home. Sometimes this move is to a retirement apartment. Recently, my neighbor of 25 years regrettably moved himself and his wife into a retirement home. They seem to be driving by or are out mingling in the neighborhood more now than when they actually lived next door. He tells me this ‘new’ place will never be their ‘home’ it’s merely a place to sleep and stay warm.

Home is where your memories are and it’s tough to leave them behind.

Most people feel attached to their homes and the town they are located in. It’s comfortable to know your neighbors and where to find the shops and other services so often used. Even though we complain about the weather, wherever we go, we will still complain about it. Home is where you heart and friends are. This is where you get your emotional support and comfort.

It costs too much to stay here.

Moving typically doesn’t save money. It costs a lot to sell your home and move your belongings. The new place will need new things and this adds to the cost of relocating. It doesn’t have to cost a lot to modify, freshen up or age proof your home. This may also require getting assistance with the maintenance. Regardless, it’s almost always less expensive to stay in the home where your heart is. Make an informed decision on the state of your home and the improvement options for the future. A good home inspector should be able to help identify and advise you on these safety and convenience improvements.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

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Are All Smoke Detectors Alike?

Most people assume a smoke detector is a smoke detector…this is not true.

In the mid 1970’s less than 10% of homes had a smoke detector; now over 90% do. Nevertheless, this dramatic increase in smoke detectors has had little impact on the risk of death by fire. Why? Some studies have indicated that many smoke detectors are either inoperable or have been disabled. Nuisance alarm activations are a major reason why detectors are disabled. National Fire Protection Association, NFPA, studies have indicated ionization alarms account for over 95% of all nuisance alarms.

Another reason is the age of the smoke detector. All smoke detectors should be replaced every 10 years.

What are the statistics on ionization vs. photoelectric smoke detectors?

62-1The majority of residential fire fatalities are due to smoke inhalation. Ionization detectors respond an average of 15 to 50 minutes slower than photoelectric. Some studies indicate they completely fail to work 25% of the time. However, ionization detectors respond faster in fast flame fires. Studies show 30 to 90 minutes quicker than photoelectric. Certainly, either smoke detector is better than none at all. Of course, a functioning smoke detector is most important. But if time and reliability are vital to our chances of surviving a smoldering fire, a photoelectric smoke detector is the best type to install in your home.

Less than 10% of all smoke detectors in homes are photoelectric.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

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Faulty Smoke Detectors

In a fire, the issue is time.

Minutes and many times seconds will make the difference between life and death. The combustible materials in our homes are different from the past and the technologies of smoke detectors have also changed. There are two types of smoke alarms, ionization and photoelectric. 90% of homes have ionization smoke detectors installed; about 5% are photoelectric and the rest have no alarm at all. The type of smoke alarm can be the difference between your family getting out of the house in time or not.

To better understand the importance of this; there are two types of residential fires, ‘fast flame and smoldering’. The vast majority of residential fire fatalities are due to smoke inhalation from a smoldering fire. And almost two-thirds of these fatalities occur at night while the occupants are sleeping. Photoelectric smoke detectors are by far the best for smoldering fires. Ionization detectors are very slow to respond to smoldering fires. Actually, Ionization detectors have proven to be significantly less reliable in both ‘fast flame and smoldering’ fires.

61-1What type of smoke detectors do you have in your home?

Daylight saving time is a great time to change the batteries in your smoke detectors. This year you should also examine the label on the back of your detectors. If the label says anything about radioactive material, Americium 241, or model number has an “I” then it is ionization. You should replace these detectors with photoelectric. More facts will be in next week’s blog.

All smoke detectors are not alike. Make sure you are protecting your family with the best fire alarm possible.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

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Spring Water Problems

It’s time to start getting your home ready for spring.

Part 2:  Leaking roofs are the second biggest problem. 

Most roof leaks are caused by roof slope or metal flashing.  As a MN home inspector for the past 27 years, I have found these conditions are seldom addressed until becoming a problem.  What I mean is until a homeowner sees interior water stains they assume nothing is wrong.  This is seldom true.  Small amounts of invisible roof moisture can be more destructive than large water events, such as storm damage.  Why, because as water is absorbed into the wood cells, decay and fungal growth begins to take hold.  The longer this condition exists the more apt it is to develop into something substantial

Roof shingles are designed to shed water.  This means if there are obstructions in the free flow of water off the roof, it will most likely develop into a leak.  This is a design issue and many times the homeowner does not have a choice about the proper slope of their roof.  But they do have a choice about the type of material to install on the roof.  There are low slope and flat roof materials that are designed to be waterproofing membranes.  And when there is a design problem with the roof, the proper and more expensive materials should be used.  A good inspector can advise you on this matter.

Roof flashings are the most overlooked key component to keeping water out of the attic.  When re-roofing, contractors are not required to replace the metal flashings on the roof.  This is a poor choice.  Additionally, many low budget roofers are not qualified to install new flashings correctly.  As an inspector this is one of the biggest problems I see day in and day out.  When you see black tar on the roof, you know you have a problem.

This spring it may be a good time for you to check your roof…before it’s a problem.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

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Spring Water Problems

It’s time to start getting your home ready for spring.

Part 1:  Wet basements are the biggest problem. 

Most basement water problems are caused by exterior landscaping and hardscaping.  As a MN home inspector for the past 27 years, I have found this condition is seldom repaired until it becomes a problem.  What I mean is until a homeowner sees water they assume nothing is wrong.  This is not true.  Actually, small amounts of basement moisture can be more destructive than large water events, such as flooding.  Why, because as water sits on the walls it deteriorates the concrete, fungal growth begins to take hold, and a force, hydrostatic pressure, begins to push the foundation in.  The longer these conditions exist the more apt they are to develop into something substantial.

When I inspect a home for a client, I always ask them, at the beginning of the inspection, what type of concerns they may have in purchasing this home.  Almost always in the top 3 is that they do not want moisture in the basement.  After inspecting over 19,000 homes, I would estimate over 85% have some sign of moisture in the basement.  That is such a high percentage, that prior to inspecting the basement, I can almost answer their initial concern.  Yes, this home has basement dampness.

9 out of 10 times the cause of a wet basement is poor slope around the foundation.  Typically, this is corrected by raising the grade and hard surfaces so they slope away from the basement.  It’s so simple.

This spring it may be a good time for you to check the slope around your house…before it’s a problem.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

Check out our Facebook page and ‘Like’ Cities Inspection for additional home tips.

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Wet Where and Wet When

What Makes My Window Panes Wet?

Problem:  The window is wet on the room side of the glass for a few weeks in fall.

Solution:   Moisture has accumulated, over summer, in the structure of the house from cooking, showering, and even the family breathing. This can be overcome by having fans exhausting to the outside in the kitchen, bathrooms and laundry.

Problem:  The window is wet or has frost on the room side of the glass in the winter.

Step 1:  Keep window drapes up 2-3” above the window sill to allow for air circulation.

Step 2:  Install bath and kitchen exhaust fans that vent directly to the outside of the home.  Turn on the fan when room is in use.

Step 3:  Put timer switches on all exhaust fans; keep the fan running for a half hour after the user leaves the room.

Step 4:  Install a continuous rated exhaust fan in the highest level hallway or bath.  This fan should be variable speed from 30 to 110 cubic feet per minute (CFM).  Be sure there is an outside air supply into the furnace room in the basement.  Leave fan running 24/7.

Solution:  Take this slowly, one step at a time.  You may not need to do all 4 steps.

Problem: The window glass is wet or fogged in between 2 glass panes all year round, but most noticeable in the winter.

Solution:

Insulated glass:  The air seal is leaking and glass must be replaced.

Storm windows:  Glass putty must be in place and sealed tight to wood sash.  Wood sash must be sealed tight to the window frame.

All humidity problems are fixable.  Winter relative humidity levels are typically 30 to 40%.  On super cold days you may need to reduce the humidity to 25%.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’ Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

 

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There’s a Mouse in the House

Mice are colonizers…so it is very unlikely that you have only one mouse!

If you give a lonely mouse the opportunity, through breeding, you will very soon have 100 mice. Controlling this problem begins with recognizing how you discovered this furry creature.

Did you see it?  Then place a peanut butter baited trap alongside the wall where you saw the mouse.  Alongside the wall is important, because mice do not voluntarily come out into open spaces. Another more aggressive food is poison bait. These baits are very effective because mice usually carry them back to the colony. You must however be very careful and certain that you are placing the baits in a place where they will not be picked up by humans or animal pets. If you have children or pets, you would be well advised not to use poison baits.

Did you hear it scratching in the walls? If you heard scratching in the wall, remove the base trim at the point of the scratching, drill a hole just above the base plate (that is the horizontal board on which the wall is built) and pour poison bait, containing warfarin, into the cavity. Using warfarin based bait is important; otherwise you will have the smell of decomposition after the mice have died. Close the hole with a rubber stopper, don’t use cork, because mice consider cork a tasty meal.  Replace the base trim and the mice will soon be gone.

Did it chew through a food package in the pantry? Do not remove damaged food packages immediately. Place a trap, baited with peanut butter, right alongside the hole in the package. You may not like leaving the damaged food package in place because of the hygienic implications. But think about it for a moment; if the package is moved mice will be scampering over all your other food while they are looking for their supper. Leave the trap for two days and then cleanup and sterilize the area.

Did you see droppings? Mouse droppings are a sign of a social meeting place. So, set a peanut butter baited trap in among the droppings and you will catch you a mouse. Don’t bother setting another trap in the same place because mice are smart, they will get the message.

Right now mice are looking for a warm spot to live and start a family.

It is no accident when a mouse gets into the house! To keep mice out of your house, you must seal up every possible entry point. These may be hard to find because they can be as small as a ¼” crack or a hole in the wall the size of a dime. Sometimes missing window and door weather-stripping or caulking is the culprit. More often, look where air conditioner, clothes dryer, plumbing and electrical pipes come through the wall.

Mice are crafty contortionists, so be patient, finding these entry points can be challenging!

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’ Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

 

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The Essentials of Sump Pumps

Incorrect terminology puts a real estate agent or homeowner at high risk.

When putting a home up for sale there are many details that are disclosed, sometimes, in a mandated seller disclosure report and other times for marketing promotions. If these features are overstated or not described correctly, liability and lawsuit risks will rise. There is no greater concern in purchasing a home than a wet basement. As a MN home inspector I too often see water control systems improperly portrayed. So let’s get the vocabulary and description correct.

Sump

The basket or pit that goes into the floor; it is typically about 3’ deep. In extremely high water table situations they can be up to 6’ deep. The sump is required to have a cover that is screwed down to protect kids and pets from drowning.

Beaver system

A plastic or metal diverter that sits on top of the basement floor slab. It is about 4” high and is glued to the foundation on the top and the floor slab at the bottom. Holes are drilled into the blocks allowing them drain and the diverter channels the water to either a floor drain or sump. This is not a drain tile system. It is an inexpensive, non-invasive, low quality method of managing wet basement walls. If the diverter glue fails the basement gets wet.

Drain tile

This is either a continuous plastic pipe with holes or clay pipe with open joints. Typically the pipe goes around the entire perimeter of the foundation below the floor slab and alongside the footing. Drain tile can be installed on the interior or exterior of the foundation and the pipes terminate in the sump.

Pump

This is an electrical pump that sits in the sump often called a sump pump. There is also battery pumps used to back-up the electrical pump if the power goes out.

Why is this important?

Can a house have just a sump? Sure, but this is not a drain tiled basement. It is just a basket in the floor. Is the beaver system the same as drain tile? No the beaver system is above the basement floor and the drain tile is below. A beaver system is an inferior method of water control. Can a basement be partially drain tiled or beavered? Yes and this is more common than you would imagine. To call a basement drain tiled you are implying the entire basement and that may not be true. Can a pump be discharged into the laundry tub? No sump pumps must be drain into the city storm drain or onto the yard. There is a stiff fine if caught dumping the water into the homes plumbing system. Does having a sump pump mean the basement is drain tiled? Absolutely not.

If you don’t know what you have, don’t claim it is something it might not be. That would make you easy pickings for a lawsuit.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI Certified Inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’ Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

 

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Let’s Look Closer At Deck Failure!

There are just two basic reasons for decks failing. The first is overloading and the second is improper construction.

Overloading: deck failure usually happens unexpectedly. We have been using the deck for several years, even barbecuing for the family without a problem. But today we are having a graduation party. Fifty teenagers’ crowd the deck which has never carried more than seven people! The music starts, the teenagers jump up and down, and the deck tears off the rim joist with the deck collapsing towards the house. Unfortunately several people are hurt.

What happened? Floor loads in a house are limited to 40 pounds per square foot or a point load of 300 pounds. That limit is designed to carry some furniture and people walking or sitting in the room. Decks are usually designed to the same limit so our deck was grossly overloaded with a large number of people on it, and absolutely could not carry the extra shock load of the teenagers’ dancing . The reason the deck failed where it is connected to the house (or the rim joist) is that this is the point where the entire load is perpendicular to the direction of the fastener. It is like suddenly smacking the fastener with an ax.

Party on the deck, by all means, but have it checked for structural integrity to be sure that the extra load can be carried. Pay particular attention to the rim joist, which should be bolted in a manner that pulls the deck floor joist and the house floor joist together. Proper hardware and an installation guide are available from your local big-box store.

Improper construction: every existing deck should be inspected to see that it has been properly constructed. Unfortunately, many contractors and local building officials do not appreciate that proper deck construction is even more important than it is in a house. The deck at some point will carry greater loads than the house floor and is being continually attacked by the weather where it has to contend with sun, rain and snow loads.

Any home inspector can determine if your deck is capable of carrying the loads required. Most often a contractor will be able to reinforce the existing structure without the need of building a new deck.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’ Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

 

‘Like’ our Facebook page for interesting info on inspections and property issues!

 

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Wood Deck Failures

What happened to pressure treated deck lumber?

Pressure treatment is a process that forces chemical preservatives into the wood. The wood is placed in a closed cylinder and pressure is applied to force the preservative into the wood. Preservatives protect wood from decay and insect damage. There are 3 classes of wood preservatives; the waterborne method is typically used in residential construction. For decades the lumber industry successfully used CCA, chromated copper arsenate, as the preservative of choice. However negative publicity regarding the arsenate caused the wood product industry to voluntarily transition away from CCA to alternative preservative systems. CCA has no longer been used residentially since December 2003. A number of alternative preservatives are available. The most recognized are ACQ, alkaline copper quad, and CA, copper azole.

Testing has indicated that ACQ and CA are more corrosive to steel and the protective coatings applied over steel.

In other words, the old galvanized nails, screws, metal hangers and connectors were no longer approved for use with the ‘new’ pressure treated wood. Unfortunately, either nobody told the builders and lumber suppliers or they just didn’t care. Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners and hardware are the recommended products to use. The structural stability of the wood deck depends upon using these approved fasteners.

When you see rusted nails, bolts, and other metal hardware on a wood deck, it is a big problem.

 

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’ Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

 

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Decks Can Be Dangerous

Deck failures are becoming more common. Why do decks fail?

The most common reasons are:

  • Old age
  • Poor design
  • Improper materials
  • Overloading

Decks should be inspected annually. All lumber should be inspected for rotting, particularly where posts meet the ground, at joist unions, and the ledger board connection to the house. Most of this rotting is caused by old age, moisture, and lack of maintenance.

However, much of the rotting is coming from fasteners and connectors that are incompatible with the type of wood preservative the deck lumber was treated with. Rusted heads on nails, screws, or bolts connecting metal joist hangers are an indication that these fasteners or connectors have failed. This was caused by a chemical reaction between the metal hardware and the pressure treated wood. This form of failure is the number one reason for decks collapsing.

Unfortunately, there is great confusion as to which fasteners and connectors are to be used with what type of lumber. The best choice is stainless steel, but it is also the most expensive and difficult to obtain. The most commonly used nails, screws, bolts, and metal hangers are hot dip galvanized. These are a good, available, and lower cost choice. The thicker the galvanized coating the better and longer the metal hardware will perform. Other approved materials, similarly priced to hot-dipped galvanized, are silicon bronze and copper.

Deck collapses are often related to overloading or lateral movement. This two conditions place a great amount of stress on the deck fasteners and connectors. Therefore, whenever rust is seen on nails or screws, they should be removed for inspection or replaced.

Avoid a disaster inspect your deck each year.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’
Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

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Choosing The Right Home Inspector

Look for Experience

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) is the oldest national home inspection association. It has a stringent Standard of Practice which all members must adhere to. These comprehensive standards have been closely copied by all competitive organizations and state licensing laws. To become a full ASHI member you must have completed 250 paid home inspections and have each one reviewed by an association peer. This many inspections will take most inspectors 3 to 4 years to complete. Many inspectors don’t even make it through the first year and less than 10% make it to year five. Then to retain membership 20 hours of continuing education must be completed each year.

Look for Out for ‘Bogus’ Certifications

Unfortunately home inspection is a career that is more demanding than most people who enter the industry realize. Anybody can join a trade association and most have no requirements to be ‘certified’ by that organization. As long as the annual fee is paid, the association calls you certified, but this label is worthless as there are no standards to be met.

There are many excellent home inspectors who have joined associations other than ASHI or who have never joined an association at all. You could after doing your due diligence on an inspector choose one of them, and be perfectly satisfied with the result. However…

Look for True Certification

ASHI is the only home inspection association that has completed a recognized third-party certification process. They were required to adopt the most rigid standards and then verify that each member meet all the requirements. ASHI member qualification and professional competence is certified by an independent third-party.

Just the act of joining ASHI demonstrates that a home inspector is willing to meet the highest standards and is prepared to operate a professional business employing these standards of practice and meeting a stringent code of ethics.

A good place to start looking for an inspector is by seeking out ones that are ACI certified. This certification is not given lightly.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

‘Pops’
Rob Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

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My Ice Dams Are Really Bad

Icicles indicate the formation of ice dams. What do ice dams indicate?

Icicles form where water is dripping from the roof when snow is melting and the air temperature is less than freezing. Older houses are most prone to ice damming and large icicle formation. Recent building and energy codes addressed this problem and provided solutions. Assuming homes built in last 40 years are properly constructed, they have little to no problem with icicles. This is because the heat loss through the ceiling is small and warm house air does not reach the roof. Current roof ventilation design and adequate ceiling insulation will not allow snow to melt and refreeze as it crosses the cold overhang of the roof. This refreeze forms the ice wall that causes water backup under the roof shingles. This is also how the interior ceiling, wall, wood structure and insulation become water damaged.

Remember mold forms in building materials that remain wet longer than 48 hours. 

Today, what can be done about a problem that is knocking on the door? The only answer is to have the ice dam professionally removed by an insured contractor. However, the long term solutions is to have an expert assess attic insulation and ventilation levels, examine for proper roof flashing and shingle underlayment, determine if poor roof design necessitates using heat cables.

Converting roofs to meet a standard that will prevent ice dams is not difficult, but it can be costly. 

Begin the solution to your ice dam problem with an unbiased home inspector analysis. Or ‘Like Us’ on Facebook for more day to day information.

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

Rob ‘Pops’ Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

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Too Much Roof Snow?

Can my roof collapse from too much snow load? It’s possible, but highly unlikely.

Since about 1950, cold climate states must adhere to engineering principles that configure the structure of the roof. They are based upon the highest potential roof snow load in your area. The building code will then require the roof be designed and sized to safely meet or exceed those live snow loads. In Minnesota that load is 42 pounds per square foot north of a line that crosses the state just south of Hinckley. The south side of the line which includes Minneapolis and St Paul is 35 pounds per square foot.

How deep would the snow be if there was 35 pounds of snow per square foot on the roof?

Well…if it was light snow it would be 5 feet deep! If it was medium or normal density it would be 2.5 feet deep and if it was tightly packed, it would be more than 1.5 feet deep. The measurement by the way would be uniform over the whole roof. In the real world there will be places that are less deep or less dense. These include areas that are covered by roof overhangs, spots protected from wind, and behind chimneys and dormers. So, if your roof meets current code, you have little to worry about.

However, if your home is hundred years or so old or you have some reason to doubt that it has been built to code, you may wish to remove some snow. Remember though, if you are removing snow you are removing a very good insulator.

If you must remove snow use a roof rake with extension handles. Never stand on the roof or scrape the roof bare as this may damage the shingles. Be very cautious about letting someone who comes knocking on your door remove the snow from your roof. Check their credentials. Make sure they have insurance.

This could become a very expensive mistake!

Doug Hastings
MN Home Inspector, Minneapolis & St. Paul
ASHI certified inspector, ACI
Kaplan University, Home Inspection Lead Instructor

Rob ‘Pops’ Leslie
Kaplan Professionals, Retired

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